Critic Bill Addison recommends L.A. wine bars and restaurants with excellent wine lists
The wine list at Kismet in Los Feliz — printed on six or so loose sheets of marigold-colored paper, clasped in a small silver binder clip — has no descriptions for the biodynamic Alsatian whites and the sulfur-free Rhône reds it catalogs.
All kinds of settings for wine drinking thrive in Los Angeles: the cool-kids wine bars; the bastions of wealth with cellars full of vintage Bordeaux to pair with rib-eyes; the escapist havens mimicking European cafes; the tiny, idiosyncratic neighborhood restaurants selling small-production Gamays made by the owner’s winemaker friends.
When I think about where I most enjoy drinking wine in the city, what comes to mind isn’t coveted vintages or esoteric producers — it’s places where pros like Whalen translate their personal curiosity into a language of delight. I think of the restaurants where an engaged sommelier asked gentle questions and said, “I have something that I bet you’ll love.” The best of them perform their own miracles of transubstantiation: They turn wine into joy.
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