Cross-generational obsessives, collectors, and fans share their collected Lang-o-mania.
star Rhamier Auguste talk us through the past, present, and future influence of one of fashion’s cult figures.“The level of refinement and the precise world that Helmut Lang built is what makes it stand apart. The way he used his design language was incredibly precise. The level of polish makes even a basic denim jacket or trouser super desirable. Beyond the genius of his design, one of the most important aspects of the brand was the marketing and the shift of fashion into the new millennium.
For a new generation just waiting to explore Helmut Lang’s archive, I recommend the 1998 shows! For autumn/winter 98, the all-white looks and the fleece into the tailoring then to the all black and white looks feel so modern. The bullet proof vests from spring/summer 98 and the painter jeans styled with just a white shirt is incredible. Lang’s work with Jenny Holzer and Juergen Teller’s backstage photography is another amazing avenue to go down.
For a new generation just waiting to explore Helmut Lang’s archive, I recommend everyone start with his life story. How he started off small in Vienna and how his ambitions brought him to Paris and New York. The journey is just as important as the end result and Lang's story speaks volumes to how dedicated he was to his craft and how little he seemed to care about accolades and rubbing elbows with traditional circles in fashion at the time.
Endyma has helped me to understand the actual garments in closer detail. But more importantly: read the reviews of his shows. They demonstrate what was going on in New York and the world at the time. Understanding this will help you love the clothes and him even more.”"I first came across Helmut Lang when I was buying for a multi brand store in the early 90s and immediately pushed the owner to allow me to buy it.
When Helmut arrived it felt so new, stripped back, utilitarian, workwear, there really was nothing like it at the time. I think any new brand that has that as much influence when it launches, will always find fans. His work resonates now more than ever, from luxury to streetwear, all reference different periods of the label's existence. Even the basic logo tee, you wore to a club with pride and acknowledged other people wearing the same tee as part of a community.
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