Traffic-free central squares, a huge urban park and a protected nature reserve reachable by bike all add up to make Valencia this year’s European Green Capital
he temperature gauge flashes 34C when I arrive in Valencia. It’s mid-June in Spain’s third-largest city, and the streets are humming with people and cars. I feel my body tense as I wait in a crowd to cross an enormous road, ambulance sirens ringing around me and neon shop signs flashing.
In 2019, Valencia was the first city in the world to measure the carbon emissions and water usage of its tourism industry In recent years, 150,000 square metres of public space across three of Valencia’s central squares – Plaza del Ayuntamiento, Plaza de la Reina and Plaza del Mercat – have been pedestrianised, with major bus routes and traffic diverted. The aim, Eva tells me, is to reduce emissions in the centre and make the area more inviting to visitors and locals.“This is the beating heart of the city,” says Eva. “In a big city like this, change has to start in the centre.”of its tourism industry.
“Most people go on boat trips from El Palmar,” says Jaume, referring to the Albufera village further south. “But I prefer entering the park from El Saler – it’s much less crowded and visitors get to experience more of Albufera’s channels, where they see a lot more wildlife.”I stay the night in Parador de El Saler, the only hotel inside the park, and the following morning meet David Warrington from Birding Valencia, who offers birdwatching tours across the Valencia region.
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