A local’s guide to Lecce, Italy: baroque beauty and rural cuisine

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A local’s guide to Lecce, Italy: baroque beauty and rural cuisine
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Puglian winemaker Massimiliano Apollonio shares tips on the best cafes, museums, parks and bike rides in his beautiful southern city

, where I often meet other winemakers. It is opposite the old Bar della Borsa, the “wine exchange” bar , so called because each week winemakers met there to decide the price of the bulk wine that Puglia exported all over Europe. Myused to take me. These days the region makes quality bottled wine rather than bulk, so discussions are now more about climate change and organic vineyards.

It comes alive from 24-26 August, when we celebrate Sant’Oronzo with a festival of lights, music and street food that no local ever misses.In between its tight mass of baroque buildings, Lecce has three key central green spaces: the lush grounds and tropical yuccas, cacti and palm trees of the Villa Reale; the sprawling Parco Belloluogo, recently renovated and perfect for outdoor sports; and the formal Giuseppe Garibaldi gardens, with their ancient sculptures and fountains.

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