In honor of Mother's Day, critic Patricia Escárcega asked her mother to share memories of growing up in Mexico.
With most of us under quarantine, the general mood of the holiday this year is bittersweet. Many families, mine included, have canceled gatherings. I’ll miss our pozole brunch, especially the part when we sit around the table for hours trading stories and jokes.Get our weekly Tasting Notes newsletter for reviews, news and more from critics Bill Addison and Patricia Escárcega.As a kid I was riveted by my mom’s stories.
Some days you got to the molino and somebody would tell you: “Se quebro la piedra” . That meant you had to wait for somebody to tear down the mill and replace the volcanic stone used to grind the masa. It was very time-consuming. There were three molinos in town back then. By the time I left Mexico, the mills were disappearing and they were being replaced by tortillerias.We had a wood-fire stove, so a lot would depend on whether we could find kindling.
He came down with a painful ulcer and he thought he was going to die. He told us: “There is no way for women to make a living in Tepa. I want you all to get your papers in order in case I’m not around soon.” My brothers got their papers processed first. Then in 1968 I came up next. It took about four years to finally reunite all the family in California.Bags of oranges outside California Citrus State Historic Park in Riverside. The author’s mother worked in the groves that the park now protects.
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