Two cities, one sandwich.
says one reason for the food's limited appeal is that they’re the parts of animals—the “beaks and butts”—that consumers from wealthier countries won’t eat. That’s far from true in Juárez, a city that the news organizationcalls “the world capital of colitas de pavo.” There the sandwiches are “one of the few dishes that can be presumed to be 100 percent local.”
The separation has been difficult for this binational community. “There’s a lot of people that still just can’t return,” says Alvarez, whose restaurant is only about a mile from the Rio Grande. Most El Pasoans of Mexican heritage have family ties to Juárez. Some even grew up splitting their time between the cities on opposite sides of the river; from Monday through Friday they’d work and go to school in El Paso, then they’d return to Juárez on the weekends. But now that crossing the bridge has become more difficult, several restaurants have popped up on the El Paso side that try to replicate the taste of home.
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