Some leave in tears, others irrevocably changed. Whatever you’re seeking on this epic pilgrim’s trek, you’ll join more people along “the way” than ever before.
Add articles to your saved list and come back to them any time.The Plaza del Obradoiro is quite the place. Dominated by the Catedral de Santiago de Compostela’s exuberant west facade – all filigree, statuary and spires – this square marks the end of the Camino de Santiago, Europe’s great medieval pilgrimage – a journey that started dozens, hundreds or even thousands of kilometres away.
“It’s the Camino’s turn to be given the ‘silly season’ treatment by the press,” he says. “There’s always been the risk of theft, vandalism and drunkenness on the Camino. This has been blown out of all proportion. Some pilgrims do stupid things just as some holidaymakers do stupid things.” Perhaps more than any other route, the Camino is defined by those who walk it, each person bringing their own purpose and baggage. “Many times I have seen people at the beginning of a Camino self-define as a tourist and finish as a pilgrim,” Walker concludes. “While the Camino is different in many ways than it was 20 years ago, it remains a wonderful and potentially transformational experience.
“The Camino attracts all types of people, and walking together can be incredibly bonding. And what people love most about the Camino is the simplicity. Living out of the contents of your relatively small rucksack for weeks at a time affords a minimalism that most people are not used to, but which is very conducive to a calm mind.”
The last 100 kilometres of the Frances, from the town of Sarria, is by far the busiest section of the route. An alternative is to peel off at Ponferrada to follow the 275-kilometre Camino Invierno, a quieter, if hillier, way into Santiago. “The Frances is best done in one go,” Brown says. “You don’t get the same experience if you do just the last 100 kilometres, which is very different from the rest.” Those lacking in time might walk a longer route over several years, in week-long chunks.Portugal’s oldest village, Ponte de Lima, is a popular starting point for the Portuguese Camino.The busiest months for overseas pilgrims are May and September – warm but not too hot.
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