After nearly a half century, Pippin’s Tavern embraces crafty, chef-driven, farm-centric food. | MikeSula
Clockwise from top: whole branzino, oyster chips, veal sweetbread corn dog, roasted half chicken, beef heart meatballs, smoked carrotsUsed to be, if you worked up a hunger bending your elbow at Pippin’s Tavern, you could vanquish it with a dog, a polish, a beef, or a burger from Downtown Dogs next door. Over the 48-year history of this Rush Street Irish dive, its charms never included food prepared with deeper thought, effort, or feeling than that.
“I like corn dogs,” says Amanda Barnes, the veteran chef behind a radical mid-pandemic rebirth of Pippin’s. “I was downstate last summer and I was eating a corn dog, and I realized the textural similarities between sweetbreads and hot dogs—that creamy, bouncy texture. So I had a moment.” Meanwhile, on the Gold Coast, the Lodge Management Group—which also owns Mother’s, the Redhead Piano Bar, and five other kitchenless bars—was forced to shutter Pippin’s due to a landlord dispute. The group’s CEO, Lyn McKeaney, viewed the introduction of food sales as a means of survival, and the vacant Devon Seafood Grill space around the corner presented an opportunity for that—and to keep the Pippin’s name alive.
Barnes signed on last May, and while supply-chain logjams delayed the opening for months, she and her sous chefs busied themselves with a host of preservation projects in the restaurant’s basement, pickling and fermenting the summer’s ephemeral local produce. “Inevitably, if you have a raw bar you have oysters that don’t get consumed,” she says. “I didn’t want to do something tired or staid like Oysters Rockefeller or grilled oysters. I wanted to do something that was a little more interesting and forward thinking.”
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