A war and cost-of-living crises around the world were left behind amid the gilt and glamour of the shows in Paris.
In Paris, the pavements are thick with sightseers. Queues of tourists snake around the stone facade of the Louis Vuitton store on the Place Vendôme and Dior’s four-storey, two-month-old uber-flagship on the Avenue Montaigne, the most expensive monobrand store renovation parent company LVMH has ever underwritten.
The exhibition opened just hours after last week’s Schiaparelli show. Models stepped out from behind smoke and black curtains as if from a 1930s jazz club in hourglass-shaped cocktail dresses with pointed shoulders and corseted waists, their faces shadowed by broad, flat boater hats by British milliner Stephen Jones.
Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri lined her show space with embroidered panels by the Ukrainian artist Olesia Trofymenko. There was an airiness and an ease, too, at Chanel, where Virginie Viard channelled Coco Chanel in the 1930s with tweed skirt suits cut straight and long at the hip and simple wool evening dresses in moss and black with pronounced front pockets.Giorgio Armani, who turns 88 next week, likewise infused his Armani Privé collection with floating fabrics and cheerful colours – hot pink, lilac, amethyst – as Delphine Arnault, daughter of LVMH chair Bernard Arnault, looked on from the front row .
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