The Alaïa spring 2023 ready-to-wear collection is here. See every look:
Pieter Mulier invited people to the unfinished space that will be the new Alaia store on the Faubourg St. Honoré—an architectural work-in-progress that he saw as the perfect foil for the feeling of his third collection: “something rough and something elegant at the same time.”
What followed flowed into all kinds of sophisticated twists and turns of draping, wrapping, ruching, and knotting, interspersed with the kind of anatomical knitted body-dresses that are an Alaia wonder. Eyes fell to the footwear: long-haired boots cuffed with huge metallic bangles on cubic lucite heels; black lacquer stiletto heels in the shape of a naked woman’s legs. Mulier has an instinct for the extreme accessory which chimes with today’s hunger for the surreal.
Mulier said he’d been “obsessed with a 1984 show, which not many people know, because Azzedine was basically draping with viscose, and also draping with leather.” In emulating the latter—the leather and shearling—he left edges raw and invented a version of perforated black leather—almost like paillettes—to make a rough-edged t-shirt and tiny skirt that Tina Turner would have worked to the max.
Now that he’s got through the first two testing seasons of being the new boy in a house with such a sacred memory, things are flowing nicely for Mulier. There’s a sense that he’s learning on the job all the time, and finding the creative balance between respecting the brand’s codes and his own vision of contemporary relevance. It takes time for people to get to know and understand each other in any house where there’s an atelier.
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