Maria Grazia Chiuri's latest collection for Dior reimagines Alice in Wonderland with a modern twist, blending whimsical elements with a sense of rebellion and feminist spirit.
Lewis Carroll’s iconic heroine received a modern twist for the 21st century. Imagine Alice, the beloved character from Wonderland, but reimagined in a Charli xcx-inspired Brat era, sporting a wardrobe meticulously crafted by Paris’s finest seamstresses. This collection embodied that vision. A snowy white cross-backed lace pinafore dress was paired with a striking black silk mohican headdress. Alice’s signature striped stockings were reinterpreted as lace-up leather gladiator boots.
Her traditional frothy skirt evolved into a birdcage crinoline, and her delicate ribbons were tied in a dog collar-tight fashion around her neck. In the front row, Pamela Anderson graced the audience beneath a dotted black veil, while Venus Williams exuded elegance in tightly coiled braids.The fashion show was held against a backdrop of a fantastical landscape adorned with embroidered lions sporting feather headdresses and plants that blossomed with both flowers and eyes. This enchanting setting was the Musée Rodin’s garden, a space where designer Maria Grazia Chiuri has consistently championed feminist ideals, using slogan T-shirts to convey her message and collaborating with a Mumbai school for female craftworkers to promote diversity. Chiuri has been at the forefront of a movement where progressive values have become the norm in the fashion industry over the past decade. However, with the political landscape shifting under Trump’s presidency, fashion is feeling the pressure to conform. While Chiuri stated backstage before the show that politics hadn't directly influenced this collection, she added that “fashion is a playground for the imagination. And in your imagination, you can create for yourself the world that you want to live in”. Dior, a prominent brand in the Trump era, is facing a significant moment of change. It has emerged as the most coveted wardrobe within the Trump circle, with Melania Trump donning a skirt suit in Dior’s iconic New Look silhouette on election night, and Ivanka Trump wearing a similar ensemble at the inauguration ceremony, which was attended by Dior’s chief executive, Delphine Arnault, and her billionaire father, Bernard. This collection marked a departure from the New Look, instead drawing inspiration from a lesser-known chapter in Dior’s history when Yves Saint Laurent held the helm. He introduced a new trapeze silhouette consisting of babydoll dresses with a graphic A-line shape, essentially disregarding the waist. Chiuri blended this late 1950s Dior reference with elements borrowed from Dorothea Tanning’s surrealist paintings, which depicted Alice in a gothic light. The gravity-defying hair and the jellyfish-like tangle of skirts seen on the runway reflected this fusion. Chiuri expressed backstage that she was drawn to “the idea of nonsense”., Dior has experienced tremendous growth under Chiuri’s leadership since 2016. HSBC recently estimated that revenues more than tripled from €2.7bn (£2.3bn) in 2018 to €9bn in 2023. This surge in revenue can be attributed, in part, to Dior’s significant share of the US luxury market and the recent strength of the dollar. However, despite Dior’s success, there have been persistent rumors of a potential change at the helm. With this collection – bold, elegant, and defiantly unconventional – Chiuri remained enigmatic, offering no clear answers about the future of the brand.
DIOR Maria Grazia Chiuri Alice In Wonderland Fashion Show Surrealism Feminism Spring 2024 Runway Paris Fashion Week Yves Saint Laurent New Look Trapeze Silhouette Dorothea Tanning Trump Era
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