Alison Cook review: Home Slice Pizza in Midtown

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Alison Cook review: Home Slice Pizza in Midtown
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Review: Home Slice Pizza in Midtown serves OK food in a madcap setting

Let’s cut to the chase: the pies at Home Slice Pizza, the new Austin import in Midtown, range from pretty good to pretty bad.

“More green, more oomph,” I groused. Nor was I captivated by a thick Sicilian square slice gilded in tomato sauce and cheese. But it was certainly OK, and as I made my way through both slices out on the covered patio, I found I was having a swell time.Hours: Lunch and dinner 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-midnight Friday & Saturday

That’s not even counting the hanging faux-geraniums and the kitschy garden statuary at every turn. I mean, just look at the welcoming committee! A multispecies tableau greets you at the outdoor entryway, populated by saints and squirrels, cherubs and angels, youths and goddesses. Someone’s inked a heart on the cranium of that housecat, and a brushy false eyelash seems to have sprouted on St. Anthony’s visage.

The other pie, a custom job, that I would cheerfully order again involved thin, smooth slices of fennel sausage and roasted red pepper. Next time I’d add the slices of fresh mushroom Home Slice uses and omit the garlic — an ingredient with which the kitchen seems to have trouble. The house Pepperoni and Mushroom pie seemed like bright, tangy fun at first. Then the salt kicked in…and in…and in. Salt overload is a definite problem here, and one that found me consuming quarts of water afterwards. In this case, the pepperoni itself was wildly salty, and added to the salty tomato sauce, it was overkill.

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