At Houston's new Tim Ho Wan, the dim sum’s all about the textures
, I was jazzed. I had dined at the Hong Kong original, which famously won a Michelin star that made it the least expensive honoree in history. I had marveled over the textural subtleties and finesse of the dumplings, steamed bao buns and rice-sheet rolls. Would a Houston version be able to compete?At lunch last week, three weeks into the restaurant’s life, memories flooded back as I bit into Tim Ho Wan’s distinctive char siu bao.
I was wowed by the steamed and pan-fried turnip cakes, lightly crisped on the outside, and trembly-soft within. And what’s this? Actual chunks of radish inside complicate matters in the gentlest way. I’ve always loved the slight bitterness of turnip cakes, and both flavors and textures were beautifully managed in this version. I’m pretty sure they’re the best I’ve ever eaten.
You must finish with a lava custard sesame ball, another exercise in exhilarating elasticity. The rich molten sweet custard inside, the exterior stretch and the pop of sesame seeds make this an item I’ll be compelled to order again and again. Tim Ho Wan’s two founding chefs have expanded globally into a chain of 60-plus restaurants. Katy is the group’s fifth location in the continental U.S. So I was apprehensive going in that the quality might be diluted, but if there is better dim sum in Houston, I have yet to experience it.
Australia Latest News, Australia Headlines
Similar News:You can also read news stories similar to this one that we have collected from other news sources.
Josh Hawley blasts Apple CEO Tim Cook for aiding China: 'Unconscionable'The Republican senator accused Apple of having 'assisted the Chinese Communist Party in surveilling' the people of China.
Read more »
Elon Musk says Tim Cook told him Apple ‘never considered’ removing TwitterApparently, it was all a “misunderstanding.”
Read more »
Elon Musk meets Tim Cook, says Apple never considered removing Twitter appThe meeting marks a significant de-escalation days after Musk went on a tweet storm accusing Apple of threatening to pull the Twitter app from the App Store.
Read more »
Elon Musk meets Apple's Tim Cook to settle dispute | Digital TrendsFollowing a series of provocative tweets aimed at Apple this week, ElonMusk met Apple boss TimCook at the tech giant's headquarters. And it seemed to go well.
Read more »
Elon Musk says he and Tim Cook 'resolved the misunderstanding' about Twitter's iOS app | EngadgetElon Musk and Tim Cook have apparently made up following a dustup over the status of Twitter’s iOS app..
Read more »