America Almost Ruined Cocktail Cherries, But Italy Is Bringing Them Back

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America Almost Ruined Cocktail Cherries, But Italy Is Bringing Them Back
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The garnish on your Manhattan has a tumultuous history, it turns out.

in countless craft cocktail establishments around the world. A far cry from the nostalgic, nuclear-red variety that beam like stoplights from Shirley Temples and sundaes, Luxardo cherries boast all-natural ingredients and a nutty, tart flavor. In other words, they're the perfect cap to a stiff drink, and the U.S. revival of the 114-year-old brand—propelled by rising cocktail standards over the last 15 years—speaks to the way modern bartenders look to the past for quality ingredients.

Meanwhile, Luxardo’s fortunes soon turned with those of its hometown. At the end of WWI, Zara was absorbed into Italy, eventually making it an intermittent hub for Axis soldiers during WWII. Beginning in 1943, American and Allied forces mercilessly bombed the city for an entire year, earning Zara the nickname “Dresden of the Atlantic.” The Luxardo distillery, along with 80 percent of the city, was destroyed.

Finally, in 1939, a cherry trade association successfully petitioned the FDA to overrule the 1912 decision. In, issued on March 15, 1940, the FDA accepted the argument that, to the majority of American consumers, maraschino cherries were, “the common or usual name of an article consisting of cherries which have been dyed red, impregnated with sugar and packed in a sugar sirup flavored with oil of bitter almonds or a similar flavor.

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