This might not be your bubbe’s apple cake, but it’s still a pretty sweet way to welcome in the new year.
seeds so that we may be fruitful, the head of a fish so we may be mindful, and honey-dipped apples so that our year ahead will be a sweet one. Apple cake is one of the staple dishes of Rosh Hashanah, and I’ve often thought that, while quite good, it could be even better, so I set out to improve it with a sweet secret weapon—toffee sauce.
After a religiously ambiguous upbringing, I first began observing Rosh Hashanah when I was 30 years old. At the time, I found an abundance of apple cake on the menus of the Rosh Hashanah meals I ate with my friends’ families, and, while I never found a bad version, per se, I noticed that the texture was often simultaneously moist in spots and, bafflingly, too dry in others—a sad result of overbaking to compensate for the water content in the apples.
While musing on how to improve this classic while still honoring it, I looked to some of my favorite cakes for inspiration. Sticky toffee pudding is one of those desserts that I’ll order every time I get the chance, and with its rich date flavor and velvety toffee sauce, I saw it as the dessert that apple cake could become with just a little tweaking. So I set out to combine the best elements of both desserts in a warm, luscious union, just in time for the upcoming holiday.
Once the softened apples and dates have been incorporated into the cake batter and placed in the oven, I prepare the toffee sauce, a glorious combination of butter, cream, and brown sugar that’s also great on ice cream sundaes or as a dip for apple slices. After cooling the cake in the pan for a few minutes, it’s just a matter of inverting it onto a platter and brushing it with the warm toffee sauce, which soaks into the cake, amping up the sweet, caramelized flavor.
Without my own family traditions to lean on, I’ve had to shape what Jewish holidays look like for our family, and that’s meant a fair bit of this kind of riffing. I’m not bound to please the elders by replicating their dishes—instead, I can use tradition as a launchpad for creativity. I like to think of it as honoring the past while creating new classics, both for my own family and for anyone who uses my recipes.
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