The only heat peak-season tomatoes need is from the pasta.
Yesterday, I reached into my CSA haul and pulled out a battered, purple tomato. It had split on one side and was bruised on another, and left a puddle of raw tomato sauce on my cutting board when I cut it, but I do not waste early-September tomatoes. So I took out a paring knife and cut around the blemishes, feeding myself irregularly shaped pieces and accumulating tomato juice on my shirt.
You want to drown yourself in tomatoes like these, but they only come around at this time of year, and even then you have to get lucky . Still, if you do find yourself with a few pounds of peak summer romas, or beefsteaks, or any of the heirlooms, my friends Melissa Hamilton and Christopher Hirsheimer of Canal House have a suggestion: tomato sauce.To some people, this will be heresy.
, they tasted their peak-season tomatoes and, as Hamilton recalls, thought "this is so fresh and delicious, let’s keep it like that." And so the recipe they developed is for a tomato sauce that stays raw.pan con tomate , the famously simple tomato-on-garlic-toast snack. The tomatoes for that dish are grated on a box grater . "The flesh ends up in the bowl and the skin ends up in your hand," Hamilton says.To that flesh, Hamilton and Hirsheimer add nothing but a clove or two of raw garlic, some, and a good dose of olive oil. Some salt, some red pepper flakes, and the sauce is ready to be tossed with warm spaghetti or put on a pizza .
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