Welcome to a 50-year-old family-owned Italian food store that’s a South Australian institution with ambitions to go global.
It’s the last place you’d expect to find a legend, but here, apparently, it is: Mercato, a little outpost of Italy Down Under, in a large and boring-looking building on a traffic-clogged main road in Adelaide’s largely working-class north-east. Out front is a car park, next door an appliance store.
Welcome to Mercato: Italian emporium, Adelaide institution and fast-evolving business success story, this year celebrating its 50th anniversary under the same family ownership.John Caporaso is the second- generation owner of Mercato; now his daughter, Jianna, is involved too.Campania-born founders Imma and Mario Caporaso opened their little Continental Deli in suburban Rostrevor in 1972.
I like to say that when Mum and Dad started out, they were selling community to the Italians. Now, we sell Italy to the community.In between methodically crimping pieces of floury dough, 71-year-old Imma is happy to pause and reflect on changing tastes. As our tastes grew more sophisticated, so did Mercato’s modus operandi. John sums it up: “I like to say that when Mum and Dad started out, they were selling community to the Italians,” he says. “Now, we sell Italy to the community.”By “we”, he’s including daughter Jianna, the third generation of the Caporaso famiglia, who joined the business last year.
So now, having established itself as a magnet for foodies from all over town, a community hub and a little slice of Italy in Adelaide, how is the brand planning to mark its 50th anniversary?It’s growing into an even bigger slice of Italy. Soon, the store will undergo a major renovation, overseen by local firm Designthink. New features will include an aperitivo bar with seating, an upgraded outdoor eating area, a deli bar serving panini, a cooking school and an improved store layout.
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