At Koreatown's new HanEuem, zero in on the comforting stews and jeon (savory flatcakes) .
The shapes of HanEuem’s modeum jeon — a platter of various meat, seafood and vegetable flatcakes — are soothing and striking in their unevenness: rough circles, tapering oblongs and wobbly rectangles, browned like diner omelets but with the occasional streak of yolky yellow.
But their individual characteristics reveal themselves once the eating begins. Start with gochujeon, halved jalapeños stuffed with small mounds of finely ground beef mixed with tofu and lightly battered. A terrific chef-y variation filled with Tennessee-style sock sausage is a perennial on the menu at Majordomo in Chinatown. This one hews more closely to its home-kitchen origins, satisfying in the way the pepper’s snap yields to the soft filling and in the direct, elemental flavors.
Kang opened the restaurant in May in the space formerly occupied by Tengoku ramen bar. It huddles among the hair and nail salons, the phone and vape shops and the coffee and juice bars that line the two-story strip mall in Koreatown near Western Avenue and West 6th Street. Look for the tent sheltering four tables outside the restaurant’s entrance.A neon sign above the door elaborates the name: Chef Kang’s HanEueum Korean Cuisine.
This menu is daunting in its own way. A Korean friend who joined me at a meal pointed out that the restaurant covers several Korean dining genres at once: drinking food, meaty specialties like galbi and bulgogi, and more homestyle dishes, including stews, soups and the combination jeon platter.The portions are hulking, intentionally sized to share, so family-style feasting is the natural order of things.
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