Atlein's spring 2023 collection has arrived. See every look:
When Sigourney Weaver dispatched the terrifying H.R. Giger-designed Xenomorph into the jaws of hell in Alien, she did more than let the movie’s audience finally exhale again. As Ellen Ripley, Weaver created a heroine for the ages, one who has become revered by designers—including Atlein’s Antonin Tron. “I first saw Alien when I was 14,” Tron said a few days before his show.“The shock of her, and her performance… It’s a sexy movie, in a way, because she’s so sweaty and physical.
You might get some visual clues to Tron’s inspiration from looking at his accomplished spring collection: his ruched drawstring effect similar to the pulls on Ripley’s fatigues; the wet, slicked skin and hair of the models akin to her appearance as she waged her one-woman war against a big old homicidal creature. Yet it wasn’t the real takeaway here.
So that ruching, which gathered this way and that, emphasized his athletic silhouette. It might run down the sleeves of a second skin tailored jacket, or slither down the sides of a hip-cleaving skirt in crushed velvet, a new fabric for him. More ruching worked its way diagonally across dresses which looked like they could be slipped on as easily as a T-shirt, while others had been worked with a ruffled effect that was anything but fussy or frilly.
Tron has been quietly working away, honing and perfecting his idea of Atlein for a while now, but this collection felt like a bit of a breakthrough moment; greater fluency in his articulation of technique, ever more commitment to sustainability and eschewing anything extraneous in pursuit of clothes which felt strong, and real, and adult.
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