Dragons, a mock whale hunt and human skulls: most of what we’re see on this trip would be visited only by the most dogged travellers.
It would have been so easy for the Komodo dragon to go unnoticed had it not been for the trained eyes of our ranger, Ishak. Longer than three metres, and with sharp claws and black eyes, it lay motionless in the shade close to our jungle track. Had I been on my own, I probably would have walked straight past it… provided it let me.
“We like the fact that it’s Australian-owned,” says Melburnian, Neil Perry. “The crews are friendly, and the Explorers are brilliant, making excursions easier to do.” During a beach barbecue on uninhabited Jampea Island late on one of these afternoons, juvenile black-tip reef sharks patrol the shallows beneath a brilliant rainbow arc. A sea turtle surfaces just offshore, gulping in a mouthful of air, while dolphins swim behind it.
On Lambata Island, Lamalera villagers who have been cursed with infertile soils in which to grow their own fruit and vegetables, have managed to adapt by hunting whales, dolphins and manta rays that pass through the fast-flowing straits just offshore.
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