I’ve been advised to “duel to the death” for a window seat on this “cinematic” flight to Cocos Keeling Islands, a place still relatively unknown to Aussies.
I zombie into Perth International Terminal 1 before the rooster clears its maddening throat, earlier than strictly necessary because I’ve been explicitly advised to “duel to the death” for a window seat on this “cinematic” flight to an outlying Australian territory of screensaver writ-large splendour, a place that, bafflingly, has barely pin-pricked our national consciousness.
Today, fortuitously, they grin certifiably, my personal port-hole pageant over-compensating for this government-subsidised route’s dearth of seat-back entertainment and its school-playlunch-like snacks. I’m rebuffed with a knowing belly laugh when I ask for a chain to lock up my rusty-chained beach cruiser. I reach either end of West Island in under 30 minutes of slothful pedalling , pit-stopping at dream-like palm coves and surf spot The Shack. With a rusty rental 4WD, you’re 10 minutes from anywhere, once you master playing chicken with crabs scuttling across the sandy road.
Evidence of the multi-generational Clunies-Ross fiefdom pervades, from ubiquitous overgrown palm plantations to the incongruous Glaswegian-bricked Oceania House. Today, you can stay in the Big House for $200 to $250 a night. The legends of New Year’s parties in its Malaysian-teak ballroom still circulate; family and workers drinking and Scottish dancing together furiously.
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