A new couture-inspired line debuts at Balenciaga’s New York Stock Exchange show.
Balenciaga creative director Demna has been hovering on top of the fashion world for almost eight years now. But how do we define his role? Is he fashion’s best comedian? When asked why he collaborated with Adidas for his Spring 2023 show, staged on Sunday in Manhattan, he said, “Well, I always wanted to use three stripes.
On top of all this is the totally awkward reality that fashion shows are supposed to make you want things, and also make you want to be someone else. You sit there squirming in your seat trying to figure out if it’s okay to think that this bespectacled figure in a gimp suit under a beautiful navy robe coat and a briefcase, their latex-clad long nails clutching a to-go coffee, looks really freaking cool.
The pant and skirt suits in particular, along with the nearly all-black palette, reminded me of the snobbism of fashion in the 1990s and early 2000s, especially in New York, when to wear colors and prints was considered gauche. Minimalism back then, like, say, Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy in a tight black Yohji skirt and big ole white shirt, was a form of hearty pretension, a sign that you were not for everybody. Black was shorthand for money, intellectualism, and power.
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