With a show set in a EU flag hued, UN inspired assembly room, Demna Gvasalia's Balenciaga collection was a perfect fit for today's confusing, discombobulating political landscape. PFW See more photos:
show was an entirely cobalt assembly room — almost the exact shape as the United Nations, and the shade of the European Union flag — with a Mobius strip of a catwalk that spiralled down the space, descending into a small pit. Consider it a metaphor for the fate of the EU, a reflection of a discombobulating political landscape.collection was about power — “power-dressing, no matter what one does as a job,” as his show notes read.
It was thrilling. The sense of actually being there and engaging was amplified by the fact that Demna enlisted scent scientist Sissel Tolaas to create an olfactory atmosphere that riffed on associations with power. Tolaas created four smells — antiseptic, blood, money and petrol — which were released from behind the ceiling and curtains throughout the presentation, transforming the show into a full-on sensory experience.
As for the rest of the clothes, it was all about uniforms. “New Fashion Uniforms,” as Demna put it. There were the broad-shouldered suits that smelt of more than just petrol, but also the intimidatingly large shoulders of-esque moguls applied to tracksuit tops and mysterious trench coats.
Though at Balenciaga, the lion’s share of sales comes from those twisted accessories and blown-up shoes. So in addition to all those extreme silhouettes and villainous tailoring, there were Hello Kitty handbags and the newest Balenciaga sneaker: The ‘Tyrex’, a hybrid of athleticism and a classic 9-to-5 office shoe. Part of the brilliance of what Demna does at Balenciaga is that it switches so seamlessly from twisted notions of the most casual, banal clothes to most spectacular.
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