The artist’s new project is a restaurant in Stockholm, with strict, brutalist rules. Just don’t ask for ketchup
The restaurant was inspired by pandemic boredom. Höller, an intense, never entirely earnest man of 60, often coolly dressed by his friend and sometime collaborator Miuccia Prada, tends to have his best ideas in the early morning. He lies in bed, he says, drinks a pot of warm coffee and lets his mind migrate. On one such half-awake dawn, he was musing on food as art.
We sat at a corner table in the 24-seat room that looks out through high windows on a street in Stockholm’s old centre, near a cinema where Ingmar Bergman’s films premiered. For a couple of hours while we talk, dishes – “cleared,” as Höller says, “of background noise” – are placed before us.
His point is made by a wonderful, clear asparagus broth, containing chunks of asparagus, some baked, some fermented, some raw. “You have asparagus, you don’t need hollandaise,” says Höller. “This is a proper alchemist dish. They use just a little of the fermented asparagus, to turn the taste of the baked asparagus around on its axis.”
The art mixes abstract minimalist pieces with a ceiling mural by a young American painter, Ana Benaroya, of “lots of naked women eating and dancing and smoking and kissing and everything good”, as Höller describes it. The principle of that clash of aesthetics is borrowed from, which was located in an old Victorian warehouse for six months from November 2008. The bar and dance floor was divided precisely in half between western and Congolese spaces. That kind of juxtaposition fascinates him.
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