From shrimp tostadas to empanadas, diners will be pleasantly surprised by the top-notch fare beyond the doors of this nondescript-looking eatery.
This is the old, “don’t judge a book by its cover” story rewritten for a quirky restaurant with an unlovely setting, minimal social-media presence, no alcohol, a no-credit-cards policy and no menus — just daily whiteboard specials listed without prices.
You’ll be in a simple room with wood, utilitarian tables, banana-yellow paint and a diner-style counter. Mirroring Catrina’s food, the no-frills space is enlivened by accents evocative of modern-day Mexico City: a Cruz Azul soccer jersey and luchador masks displayed in frames; a few catrina skulls and cacti; a huge, hallucinatory portrait of someone in eye-popping catrina makeup; and the posterized logo of Caifanes — a Mexico City rock band — whose videos sometimes play on a large, overhead TV.
was a notably attractive version of the hominy-and-pork stew. With its zesty red broth, tender if fatty meat and DIY add-ons — tostadas, limes, dried oregano and the fiery red hot sauce that accompanies most dishes — it's one of the best pozoles around, too.The flavorful soup that accompanies the quesabirrias was at least as chuggable.
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