Charles de Vilmorin’s vision for Rochas includes swirly, fantastical drawings, oversize prints in vivid primary colors and twisted figures embroideries.
“The fabric research has been pretty intense,” de Vilmorin said during a casting session, as stylist Camille Bidault-Waddington fitted prospective models.The collection was loosely inspired by the idea of an ancestral house — hence the drawings of chateau-style furniture on one of the dresses. It will be shown at the ornate 19th-century town house formerly owned by American philanthropist Mona von Bismarck.
“I wanted to convey the idea of a family home, something quite intimate and reassuring, with a Parisian sense of elegance,” he said. Except, he explained, at one point the house catches fire. “The Rochas universe is more sophisticated and feminine. We tried to bring in a touch of techno, a manga spirit. I’m giving it my own spin.”
Cue a little black leather pinafore dress; an orange-and-gold metallic dress framed by a sculptural ruffle, and clompy platform shoes and boots, inspired by Tim Burton’s movies. Founded by Marcel Rochas in 1925, Rochas has seen its fashion activities shuttered and revived several times in recent years, with successive owners appointing Olivier Theyskens, Marco Zanini and,
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