Three of France’s top chefs are designing the menus for the Athletes Village at the Olympics. But spectators can also win by visiting their buzzy, innovative restaurants.
Already a subscriber?When France’s various tourism boards and Olympics organising agencies invited me on a pre-Games press tour of Paris and Marseille, I assumed the idea was to see and appreciate the usual plumbing of an Olympics: the flashy new sporting venues, the cleverly repurposed public spaces. But no: this is the French we’re talking about.
It’s the French playing to their greatest strength. As the world knows, to the point of cliché, nothing is more important to the French soul than food and drink. But that’s no reason for the spectators to miss out. If you’re in Paris for the Games, and/or if you’re venturing to Marseille for the soccer or the sailing, you can eat like an Olympic athlete. And unlike the athletes, you’re almost guaranteed to be a winner.The chef at the top of the podium is Mazzia, and his restaurant for 24 diners on a residential street about a 20-minute taxi ride south of Marseille’s city centre.
I’m vegetarian, but this proves no barrier to a chef of Mazzia’s calibre. Something introduced as smoked cauliflower was actually just foam, like the distilled essence of the dish. It felt like there were dozens of flavours jostling inside the single spoonful. Even a simple piece of chargrilled broccoli was taken to a new level.Mazzia will be in Paris while the Games are on.
Unlike AM, this isn’t cooking that will sear its way into your memory. But the evening surely will, as the restaurant is lively and friendly, and the exceptionally nice wines kept conversation and spirits joyously afloat.
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