Christian Cowan RTW Spring 2020

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Christian Cowan's high-wattage spring runway show had ample shine, but it too showed growth.

“I think the collection grows up with me,” mused Christian Cowan backstage after his high-wattage and high-shine spring runway show. “It’s so nice, starting a brand when you’re young, because I can look back and see it’s a diary of me growing up…maybe not as deep as growing as a person. But this [collection] is really inspired by my family in Spain.

For spring, the designer started by looking to his beachside hometown of Moaña, Spain. “The first thing I think of when being back home is with a towel on the beach, hanging out,” Cowan said. The show’s first look was a direct result of that: Karolina Kurkova emerged in a rhinestone-fringed and studded white terry dress, complete with a bedazzled towel wrapped around her head.

Cowan aimed to start the collection with Spain, and end it with his life in New York. He did so with over-the-top, high-volume and high-shine looks via chainmail rhinestone mini dresses, holographic club kid options and glamorous, puffed sleeve sequined frocks. A dazzling red number with ties at the wrist and rhinestone mesh at the chest stole the show. But there were also more daytime-y offerings — “pieces for women everywhere to wear,” he called them.

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