Column: Quel Fromage founder brewed far more than coffee

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Column: Quel Fromage founder brewed far more than coffee
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Coffee house pioneer Gene Coster is fondly remembered for his love of the Hillcrest community by the many regulars who found friends and camaraderie in his shop

On Feb. 21, the renovated Hillcrest sign spanning University Avenue by the corner of Fifth Avenue was mounted and ceremoniously re-lit after a brief hiatus.

Nearly 30 years after it closed, a Quel Fromage friends Facebook page remains: “For all of those who gathered, worked and played together at the granddaddy of San Diego coffee houses, a place to share photos and stories and to reconnect to each other.”“The Quel was a place to breathe, think, decompress, mingle and perhaps shape ways forward in company with a merry band of others doing similar things,” wrote John Rippo, longtime publisher of The Espresso coffee house and cafe newsletter.

Enduring relationships brewed along with the coffee. Couples met there on a first date, and one liaison even led to a marriage at Coster’s Hillcrest home. Some referred to the coffee house entrepreneur as the unofficial mayor of San Diego; others called him a hero. “He was very loved wherever he went ... interesting, complex, quiet but very funny, poetic ... I have 55 of his poems,” Ellen says.

The coffee shop is gone, but Coster’s spirit remains: “Whenever I see that Hillcrest sign lit, it will remind me of Gene,” says Rippo.

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