Eating $44 Grilled Cheese With Barbie

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Eating $44 Grilled Cheese With Barbie
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Dinner at the Malibu Barbie Café in Manhattan is an “experience.”

The Malibu Barbie Café, which has one other pop-up location in Chicago, is strictly reservation-only, and booking a time slot around peakmadness was tricky. We could only get a table for three during the last seating on a Thursday night, which cost us $44 each — an incredible sum we paid online before ever walking through the door.

When we arrived at 8:15 p.m. for our reservation, the café was full. Most of the other patrons were women, and some of them were children. Roughly 80 percent of guests were wearing pink, and 110 percent were taking pictures. No one was looking at the menu given that the advanced reservation price includes an entrée ordered at the time of booking. Bridget and I chose the Live Your Dream Grilled Cheese, while Maddie chanced it with the vegan option, the Gold Coast CALI-flower Bowl.

The “experience” part of the Malibu Barbie Café consists of a variety of Instagram photo setups placed around the restaurant, including an “iconic life-size Barbie Box” and a “Malibu beach scene” . This was not exactly the Barbie Land so meticulously imagined and realized in Gerwig’s film.

Before we left, I visited the ladies’ room, which had all the charm of a Penn Station toilet, plus — finally! — stickers. The mirrors were decorated with the phrases “CONFIDENCE is the best accessory” and “Feel the.” Both soap dispensers were broken; one was missing a top, and the other was lying in pieces in the sink, as if someone had felt too much Kenergy and smashed it violently. I kept this information to myself as I paid the check for our drinks and dessert .

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