Eden Center’s newest jewel: A Vietnamese restaurant fit for royalty

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Eden Center’s newest jewel: A Vietnamese restaurant fit for royalty
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Truong Tien, in the back of the Falls Church shopping center, specializes in Hue royal cuisine, the types of dishes once served to the emperor.

Sitting opposite me at a four-top inside her restaurant at the Eden Center, Thanh Huong Thi Truong carefully peels open a banana leaf that has been folded into a petite, palm-size packet. As slim as a money envelope, the packet is so scant, it looks as if nothing could possibly hide inside the mossy green frond, but once Truong unfolds its edges, the banana leaf reveals its cache: a thin, almost translucent layer of steamed rice cake mottled with shrimp and pork.

Her restaurant, Truong Tien, buried deep within a mall at the Vietnamese shopping center in Falls Church, specializes in the dishes that collectively are known as Hue royal cuisine, named for the ancient imperial city where the preparations sprang to life during the Nguyen dynasty of the 19th and early 20th centuries. Imperial plates are not totally foreign to the D.C.

When I inquire about this passing of knowledge, Truong’s business consultant and unofficial interpreter Toan Ngo provides an answer, based in part on his years of friendship with the home cook turned chef. Ngo suggests that Truong’s ancestors had the talent, discipline and curiosity necessary to replicate these complicated dishes. They’re “maybe not 100 percent but at least 90 percent” authentic, he says.

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