Daily News | El Chingón is the heart of Philly’s Mexican sandwich scene
Philly’s vibrant Mexican scene has blossomed over the past few decades as immigration from Puebla surged and parts of South Philadelphia became destinations for rich brown moles, steamy weekend tamales and taquerias of varying styles and specialties. And all them, of course, rely on tortillas.
Aparicio’s family used to bring these round rolls — smaller than telera bread for tortas — whenever they visited rom Mexico, because stateside versions always seemed too dry and brittle. But at the outset of the pandemic, when travel was curtailed and his extended family in Philadelphia lost their restaurant jobs, they began to bake their own.
That includes the tostadas at El Chingón topped with slow-stewed rabbit tinga, but that also flank the guacamole streaked with charred salsa tatemada, as well as the vegan aguachile. The masa is blended from different varieties for flavor and toasted on the comal, which lends a leathery snap, spotted with the char and burnt edges of the totopos Aparicio grew up with.
Aparicio even brings an extra baker’s flex to the fresh flour tortillas for the Árabes tacos, infusing those rounds with a cold-fermented hint of sourdough I’ve never encountered. The filling for those tacos, though, is what most caught my attention: the spit-roasted pork marinated in herbs and vinegar as an homage to the shawarma of Mexico’s Lebanese immigrants.
You feel it alongside the weekend crowd sipping hot cups champurrado with their chilaquiles, the late-night partyers seeking morning revival over honeycomb tripe bowls of spicy menudo stew. Some teenagers are crushing a choripapas mountain of french fries and fresh green chorizo glossed in a puddle of melted queso for a mid-day snack.
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