The culinary talents of acclaimed chef Tal Ronnen impress at Crossroads Kitchen, says restaurant critic Merrill Shindler.
King’s Fish HouseIts “veganosity” is so well established after a decade on Melrose Avenue in West Hollywood, the menu doesn’t even bother to proclaim its meatlessness. The slabs on the Cheese Plate are identified as “Camembert-Bleu” and “Boursin,” even though they’re cobbled together from curious things done to nutmeats. Ditto the whipped feta and bleu cheese with the poached pear. And, of course, the pepperoni and sausage on the pizza come not from the backyard.
His Calabasas branch, on the eastern edge of The Commons, is a bit of a cultural curiosity. The cooking may be Zen, but the setting is upscale rock ’n’ roll. You’re greeted by a massive photograph of Mick Jagger in mid-“Satisfaction” as you enter. There’s also Bruce Springsteen, Stevie Nicks and Carlos Santana.
And indeed, the folks sipping on $250 bottles of Far Niente Cabernet at Crossroads are a well-dressed coterie of locals who have opted to pass on a feed of critters for at least one meal. The creative zucchini blossoms are stuffed with almond ricotta and come with a tasty dipping sauce at Crossroads Kitchen in Calabasas. Chef Tal Ronnen’s cookbook, “Crossroads: Extraordinary Recipes from the Restaurant That is Reinventing Vegan Cuisine,” is on sale at his restaurant, Crossroads Kitchen in Calabasas.
Come for brunch, and there are eggless scrambled eggs with meatless bacon and breakfast sausages, but with real fruit and avocado. And genuine potato rosti. There are chicken and waffles that I have never seen in a henhouse.
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