The doyenne of the London food scene goes back to her gastropub roots
For a chef and restaurateur whose ethos is so fundamental – some might say foundational – to the current London restaurant scene, the news that Margot Henderson OBE, founder of the Rochelle Canteen in Shoreditch and wife of St John’s Fergus Henderson, is opening her very first pub, is a big deal. But it’s the fact that The Three Horseshoes is not in the capital, but in the tiny village of Batcombe in the West Country, that will really set the cat amongst the pigeons.
In truth, Henderson is a little late to the party; Somerset has been booming for some time. In just a few years, Bruton – the epicentre of the scene – has been transformed from sleepy market town to Dulwich-on-the-wold thanks to the arrival of an outpost of the international art gallery Hauser & Wirth , a Michelin-starred restaurant on the high street and even a five-star country-house-hotel .
Fuelled by his era-defining concept of “nose-to-tail eating”, Fergus moved on to found St John, the iconic Clerkenwell restaurant. And Margot teamed up with Melanie Arnold to found Arnold & Henderson catering and later Rochelle Canteen, which is as roundly adored as St John, but slightly less… visceral. The dining room, a former school bike shed, is chicly casual; the menu seasonal and elegant in its simplicity.
This content is imported from Instagram. You may be able to find the same content in another format, or you may be able to find more information, at their web site.The downside is that in the middle of nowhere, you can’t get a bag of parsley biked over at all hours of the day, but less can sometimes be more. “We have to be more thoughtful and use what we’ve got,” she continues. “And I quite like that, the less you have the more you respond to it. And that can be really helpful.
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