While a couple renditions of the sandwich remain, its best-known source, Salem Lowe, closes this month after over a century (via EaterBoston)
,” a regional name for a dish of elbow macaroni with meat sauce — quite different from the Chinese American chop suey.) Chow mein, which includes noodles, can be similar to chop suey. At Salem Lowe, the two are basically the same, Yee says, but for chow mein, “we cut the vegetables a little bit differently.”
The chop suey sandwich — with a price that feels like a relic of another time, $2.94 — is singular, though it evokes other difficult-to-eat delights like the sloppy joe. Bobbie remembered correctly that Salem Lowe serves its sandwiches with a fork, but I started off eating mine like a taco, with the top bun cradling the chop suey filling.
While an exact origin story for these sandwiches is tough to pinpoint, Chinese American restaurants in the early- and mid-20th century sometimes tried to appeal to Western tastes by serving certain dishes between buns or bread. St. Louis, Missouri, has; Fall River’s chow mein sandwich follows a similar pattern.
Yee has been glad to see ample community support in Salem Lowe’s final days and looks forward to retiring despite being one of the last remaining stewards of such a unique dish. I didn’t grow up eating chop suey sandwiches, but the nostalgia I felt in Salem was real — my aunt Bobbie introduced me to Chinese American food; Salem Lowe introduced it to her. I felt lucky to close the circle, even if I’ll never eat a chop suey sandwich again.
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