The latest documentary from the director of Whitney skirts around the issues raised by the anti-Semitism and subsequent revival of former Dior and Givenchy creative director John Galliano.
Models throwing fresh mackerel at audience members; impersonating a lion while naked in a hotel elevator for four hours straight; a signature style of cutting fabric on the bias, giving birth to the iconic black slip dresses that took over in the 90s and forever after. Fashion designer John Galliano has made headlines for his virtuosic, generation-defining work on the catwalk as much as for his ludicrous antics offstage.
The liberatory, fashion-forward subversiveness of the underground New Romantic movement in London arrives as a breath of fresh air after the repressiveness of Galliano's childhood. Macdonald expertly evokes the trend through the reverberations of 80s synth-pop and the quaint sheen of low-resolution photographs.
Macdonald says the films asks: "If you see the world only through beauty ... does that make you a full human being? Do you need to have a moral sense as well?"Addictions to work, substances and exercise begin to take hold as Galliano suffers devastating losses in his personal life – first his father, then his life anchor and right-hand man Steven Robinson – while the unrelenting demands of being a fashion designer never abate.
The dizzying, meteoric highs of delivering yet another critically acclaimed runway production are followed by the lowest of lows and multiple-day benders. The staggering, unattainable beauty of the clothes, narratives and fantasies that Galliano creates is complicated by the market imperative for art to be commodified and accessible to the very people that keep fashion houses in business.
Right at the start of High & Low, Galliano boldly utters, "I am going to tell you everything", but in truth, he doesn't tell us much – whether due to inability or unwillingness is unclear. There are some pressing questions around Galliano: Does creative genius exempt moral shortcomings? Can we, should we, separate the art from the artist? Should people get second chances ? And who gets to decide who deserves a second chance?How Alix Higgins bluffed his way into having a show at Australian Fashion WeekUnited KingdomIn expensive Taiwan, some young people are giving up on real estate to join the 'moonlight clan'...
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