Breakfast, lunch and dessert are covered with this versatile late-summer fruit.
Believe it or not, it’s rare that someone who develops recipes for a living gets to play with their food. But that’s what I’ve been doing with figs for the last couple weeks. I’m always one to become obsessed with a certain fruit while it’s in a fleeting season, and figs are. I spent a lot of time eating them with odd ingredients or subverting their delicateness with intense flavors to see if they could handle it.
After eating some leftover scraps of fig and watermelon on my morning toast one day, I thought, “Oh, this is great,” and immediately set about turning it intot of the last month. Ripe purple figs and slices of watermelon balance out each other’s sweetness — the former rich and heady, the latter lean and refreshing — and pair perfectly with mild, creamy ricotta on sesame toast with a drizzle of tahini and some lime zest. Some recipes just develop themselves.
And for dessert, I took it back to the cookie that fed me through my college dorm years for inspiration: the fig Newton. Using a hearty whole-grain flour to balance the floral sweetness of figs has always been an inspired match. But in, I use rye flour in the cake — which stays light despite the heft, I promise — and browned butter in the frosting to amp up the nuttiness.
Honey sweetens the jammy filling, which also gets used as a tart sauce on top after some of it is puréed with a bold amount of fresh lemon juice. It’s the type of cake that’ sweet but not incredibly rich — you can eat it for breakfast just as easily as for dessert or a snack around the afternoon blood-sugar lull.
I hope you find these recipes as fun to eat as I did to create. It was work, of course, but under such carefree circumstances, the figs did all the heavy lifting.Rich, plushy figs are balanced with crunchy, lean watermelon in this odd but delicious pairing. If you don’t like watermelon, a ripe cantaloupe or other musk melon works well too, although the sweetness will be more pronounced. Greek yogurt, labneh or even cream cheese can work in a pinch if you don’t have ricotta.
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