Art-inspired collections and garden showcases, plus cameos from Harry Styles and Arsenal’s Declan Rice
Football, tutus and mayonnaise: the highlights of London fashion week spring/summer 2025 – in picturesLabrum London made history by presenting the first-ever fashion show at the Emirates Stadium, with a cameo by Arsenal’s Declan Rice. Titling his collection ‘Designed by an Immigrant: Journey of Triumphs,’ Foday Dumbuya, founding creative director, celebrated diverse immigrant cultures and highlighted the struggles and triumphs of immigrant artists.
Jonathan Anderson gave us a lesson in less is more for SS25, reducing his fabrics to only four; cashmere knit, leather, silk and sequins. The result was a concentrated refocus. The silhouette was mini in length, sometimes a simple shift, an extended thigh-grazing jacket dress or a more conceptual circular leather tutu skirt .
The Well of Loneliness by Radclyffe Hall was the starting point for Erdem’s SS25 collection. The book tells the story of a woman living as a man and her relationship with a woman – Hall herself lived openly as a gay woman with her partner Una Troubridge. The collection pays homage to the book’s characters, and also to Radclyffe and Una. Traditional menswear and womenswear were blurred and juxtaposed. Slouchy men’s cardigans and blazers were worn over tea dresses.
For his SS25 collection, Aaron Esh wrote a love letter to east London. He captured the essence of an indie night out in Hackney, but with a touch of glamour. Every detail was intentional. The high-piled velvet cut on the bias accentuated the female form, while silk blouses were frayed and trailing hems were left intentionally unfinished. The collection was masterfully styled by Katy England, with Rockin’s thin scarfs and bead collars peeking out of layered, sheer fabrics.
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