The relentless desire to jazz things up is to blame for the disappearance of fond favourites. But there’s always pleasure to be found in old-school cakes
Photograph: Laura Edwards/The Guardian. Food styling: Rosie Ramsden. Prop styling: Louie Waller. The relentless desire to jazz things up is to blame for the disappearance of fond favourites.
But there’s always pleasure to be found in old-school cakes got into a small and pointless argument with a friend recently when she announced that a certain bakery chain was the only place in her London neighbourhood where she could buy, I’d find them near my own home, and realised she may have a point. A few days later, I was asked to go on BBC Radio 4 to comment on the decision by Somerset’s Burns the Bread to stop selling iced buns, which naturally made me desperately crave an iced bun. But were there any to be found near me? No. Thankfully, I’ve since realised you can get an excellent example for just £1.60* at Raabs the Bakers on Essex Road in London.
But, before this turns into a food guide to my neighbourhood, may I point you in the direction ofshould you also suddenly have a craving for soft, pillowy dough with a crackly smear of sugar on top. Both would be just as good not jazzed up. Indeed, I suspect that the relentless human desire to jazz things up is to blame for the disappearance of old favourites, the rare treats of my childhood. I’m thinking of the lardy cake , but trends now travel so fast that we’re in danger of losing many older, defiantly local specialities to a flattened global palate, largely centred around chocolate. The sweet spices and dried fruit that have been popular here for centuries in things such as, or India its candied gourd and garlic kheer to the unceasing march of less labour-intensive, more social media friendly desserts..
Perhaps there’s nothing new under the sun … but if you have an old favourite, it might be wise to go out and buy one, just in case. *If you rolled your eyes at London prices from independent bakers , remember that’s significantly less than a cup of hot water and a teabag at Costa – and consider signingbook tour, you end up spending a few hours in a place, eating at weird times and grabbing something in a rush.
This time, happily, it’s involved a lot of fish and chips, not a meal I have very often due to it being hard, though not impossible, to get really good stuff in London . She’s already feeling better connected to her diet, and finding that cooking from a more limited store cupboard is “strangely liberating”.in the afternoonI was in Ireland last month for my book tour.
Although I travelled by boat and train, which limited how much I wanted to lug home, one of the things I did not regret having to carry was a sachet offrom County Down’s Tacacucina, which I have been sprinkling on almost everything savoury ever since. It’s crunchy, savoury and completely addictive.
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