Goed Zuur's New Chef Relaunches Its Tasting Menu

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Goed Zuur's New Chef Relaunches Its Tasting Menu
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Devin Rachles took over for founding chef and co-owner Anthony Lopiccolo in May, and now he's bringing back the eight-person chef's table.

in California, he knew exactly who should take his place at the sour beer-focused restaurant.

Lopiccolo had started Goed Zuur, at 2801 Welton Street, back in 2017 with co-owner John Fayman, for whom he'd previously worked atin Boulder. There the two had experimented with higher-end fare beyond the pizza menu. "It was a work in progress at Backcountry. The food Anthony was putting out was exceptional," says Fayman, but the customers were there mostly for pizza."They weren't there to eat a caviar cracker paired with a unique beer.

So he and Lopiccolo discussed opening a smaller, more niche restaurant, landing on the sour-beer focus because they were both obsessed with lambics at the time. Since Goed Zuur opened, its menu has taken a few turns — all overseen by Lopiccolo — with interesting meats, cheeses and small plates as staples and occasional larger entrees, as well as the recent addition of a chef's counter.

The two had discussed Rachles joining the Goed Zuur team in the past, but it never worked out financially."Unfortunately, the only way for it to work out was for one of us to move out and one to move in," Lopiccolo adds. "I know a lot of people are bummed about Anthony leaving," Rachles admits."No one really knows who I am. ... It's a great privilege and a great pressure."

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