Despite the acute danger posed by the monstrous waves he seeks out, Kerby Brown values the ocean’s therapeutic nature
efore his fatal attempt to summit Mount Everest almost a century ago, British mountaineer George Mallory was asked why he wanted to climb the world’s tallest peak. “Because it’s there,” he famously replied.
There are plenty of large waves in the world, including many along Australia’s vast shores. Attempting to ride any wall of water more than a few metres high is attended by risk, but Brown takes death-defying surfing to a new level. Riding monstrous slabs as they erupt upon the coast – deep water swell violently colliding with shallow reef – is the protagonist’s specialty.
Facing Monsters is not for the faint-hearted. The film is 100 minutes of these death-defying waves, in beautiful high definition. The ocean cinematography, by Rick Rifici, is breathtaking – Western Australia could not ask for a better long-form tourism advert. Between scenic ocean vistas, Brown dances through 10-metre waves like a ballerina. Yet a sense of foreboding looms large.
“I got so lucky,” he says. “I did get thrown and I did basically go straight on to the reef. I was just pinballed. I got heaps of cuts and bruises and stuff, but I guess I fell on the right angle, so I didn’t do any serious damage. You’re obviously at the mercy of the ocean.“There are some waves where you don’t know if you’re going to come away OK, because you’re getting thrown on to the rocks,” he adds.
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