Bubala’s executive chef on the powdered sour berry that works with sweet and savoury dishes
‘Sumac cuts through rich dishes beautifully.’Sumac is a sour berry. It’s dried and ground into a ruby red powder. I discovered it at [London restaurant] the Palomar when I first started cooking there. The head chef at the time was using it in sweet and savoury dishes. There would be sumac marshmallows and meringues and sumac and lemon tarts but we would also add it to a fattoush salad. It’s used in a lot of Middle Eastern cookery to add a sour tangy flavour.
I use it in addition to lemon juice because it gives a different level of tang and you can create layers of flavour. I add it to salad dressings and pesto. I’ve used it in a sorrel and pumpkin seed pesto, as sorrel has a very similar flavour profile. Whiz up sorrel, parsley, toasted pumpkin seeds, olive oil, sumac, lemon juice and maple syrup, and use it to dress fresh crunchy things like a kohlrabi and apple slaw.
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