As horchoffee's popularity grows, so does the controversy around its origins. ludwighurtado reports
An icy blend of horchata and coffee at Colina Cuervo in Brooklyn. Photo: Melissa Hom Yana Volfson, who is the beverage director at Atla in Noho, admits she loathes the name of one of the café’s more popular coffee drinks. Atla’s horchata latte is half a shot of espresso mingled with the rice-based, cinnamon-scented drink that’s familiar to anyone who has ever been to a taco truck.
When Cesar Vega opened Café Integral in Nolita, he insisted on making all of his own nut milks, frustrated by the fact that industrial dairy alternatives were often highly processed drinks sold under the guise of a vague health halo. After experimenting with some brown-rice-based horchatas, Vega and his team created an almond milk that incorporates a spice blend to give it the characteristic cinnamony feel. He also serves horchata with espresso.
“It’s not just a Mexican drink,” he explains. “There are so many different horchata recipes, and our horchata recipe is our horchata recipe.” However, a closer look at the drink’s history and its expansive representation across Latin America makes it clear that experimenting with the boundaries of horchata might not be as transgressive as some critics believe; horchata is a perfect example of diasporic difference in the Latinx community.
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