How one of New York’s top food critics got his start—by accident.
“The reservation will be under the name Mrs. Rebecca Limos,” Gael had said when she called over the ancient landline telephone wire, speaking in a deep, hushed voice that managed to sound both commanding and conspiratorial at the same time. I should arrive at precisely the appointed time, which I dimly recall was one o’clock. The restaurant’s entrance would be in the back of the hotel, not the front. She pronounced her fake name “Leee-mooohs,” drawing out the vowels in an exaggerated way.
“Do you know Alain’s cooking?” she asks, still scribbling away. At this early stage in my fledgling food writing career, I don’t know shit about Alain Ducasse’s cooking, of course. My idea of a grand New York dining experience is lunch at our local diner in the Village, Joe Jr.’s, where a bowl of the vividly green, crouton-laden split pea soup costs $2.50 and Louie the head waiter bellows out “Good morning, El Jefe!” to the regulars when they shamble through the door.
“Is there a lunchtime price fixe option?” I hear myself say to Gael as I scan the almost cartoonishly large menu, attempting to conjure up witty and knowledgeable avenues of conversation. Unlike at Joe Jr.’s, a single veal chop costs $76 at Monsieur Ducasse’s establishment, and it doesn’t take a professional critic to figure out that the prices are bordering on the insane.
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