Forty years ago, ‘local produce amounted to someone leaving a sack of potatoes on the back porch’, says the destination restaurant’s co-founder.
Already a subscriber?There’s a gentle hum as families and friends finish a long lazy lunch in the Lake House dining room, its picture windows overlooking Lake Daylesford framed by the soaring stringybarks Alla Wolf-Tasker planted 44 years ago from saplings bought at a school fete.
“This is really a celebration of a journey by two people,” she’s at pains to tell me. “Someone is missing beside me.” Here, they escaped their housing commission flat in Melbourne’s western suburbs to welcome friends with feasts of borscht, homemade sausages, fresh cheeses, sourdough and rye breads, foraged mushrooms, smoked eel, and crocks of fermented vegies. There’d be swimming in the lake, card games, poetry and singing to the accordion. In short, good food and genuine hospitality.
“Most of our customers were salesmen looking for a roast dinner with three veg, so there was a bit of a disconnect. People would say, ‘What on earth are you doing here? This is Daylesford.’ It was a down-at-heel country town surrounded by industrial potato farming. It was so deserted you could shoot a rifle down the main street and not hit anyone.
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