A group of Russian women were once the hottest things at couture, embraced not just by fashion, but by the watching world. Where are they now?
and those bridges began to look very shaky – along with the way fashion itself can be a shortcut to acceptance, reverberating beyond individuals to affect perception in the world at large.“People use fashion and taste to rehabilitate themselves or empower a larger project like a profession or country,” says Sophia Rosenfeld, a professor of history at the University of Pennsylvania and the author of. “To whitewash themselves or a national culture or a set of business practices.
Ditto the robber barons of the Gilded Age, and women like Caroline Astor and Alva Vanderbilt, whose philanthropy, fashion and taste catapulted them into the centre of society. Ditto the current Qatari royal family, who introduced the Fashion Trust Arabia prize in 2018 under the aegis of Sheikha Moza bint Nasser and Sheikha Al-Mayassa bint Hamad Al-Thani, luring Pierpaolo Piccioli, Olivier Rousteing and Naomi Campbell to the Gulf in an attempt to change the image of the region.
As their followings grew, designers began to see in them potential conduits to the new Russia, a market labelled by Goldman Sachs in 2009 as a key driver of “global consumption”, and for which, Winroth wrote, “it was crucial for the Western fashion industry to have the right Russian mediators”. Their narratives were complicated by just one thing: the fact that when they burst onto the scene, Duma and Co. were all married to oligarchs or oligarch-adjacent menDuma, who was born in Siberia and whose father was a senator in the Russian Federation from 2004-11 , to Alexei Mikheev, whose father, Alexander Mikheev, is the director general of Rosoboronexport, the Russian state-controlled weapons exporter .
Not that most people in Paris thought about those implications because the husbands were almost never around. And Duma’s surprise appearance in the Mueller report in 2019, where she was identified as “a contact of Ivanka Trump’s from the fashion industry” who had “passed along invitations” to the St Petersburg International Economic Forum for Ivanka Trump and Donald Trump in 2015.
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