How Sterling Ruby made the leap from art to high fashion:
On 17 June 2019 Le Pagliere, a 19th century hay manger in the heart of Florence, pulsed with an electrifying experiment in fashion-craft and catwalk theatre from Sterling Ruby. As he unveiled his new fashion project, S.R. STUDIO. LA. CA., the prolific LA-based multidisciplinary artist provided the standout show of the spring/ summer 20 men’s season.
“Making clothing started out very privately. Wearing it personally, and occasionally gifting it to friends, it w as really only seen by the people closest to me.”Throughout his varied artistic practice the constant has been an assault on materials and social structures, referencing marginalised societies and maximum-security prisons, modernist architecture, artefacts and antiquities, graffiti, bodybuilders and warfare, cults and gangs.
Flag’s Gren Ginn in his favoured Oxford shirts and Henry Rollins in black running shorts when a teenage Sterling made trips to Baltimore and Washington to watch his hardcore punk heroes. For as long as he can remember, he has been exploring garments as a medium that impacts the way we can think, feel, and move. “This project, making clothing, started out very privately,” he adds.
In a sense, Sterling has come full circle with S.R. STUDIO. LA. CA., as clothes-making was one of his first artistic pursuits. Over the course of the last decade he has continually returned to the spirit of his teenage wardrobe. “I have to say that I’ve almost reached a point where I only wear what I make,” Sterling told us back in 2016, when his studio uniform experimentations were presented inat Sprüth Magers’s London gallery space.
This powerful collage of Sterling’s past, present and future was amplified with a casting made up his friends and family, including the actress Mackenzie Davis and her partner, the artist and former studio staff member Augustus Thompson. Designer and curator Clemande Burgevin Blachman, studio staff member Sonja Bartlett and Raf Simons’s longstanding right-hand man, Pieter Mulier. “In doing a show for the very first time, I wanted to preserve the intimacy of where it came from,” Sterling says.
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