Wandering from food hall to food hall, in search of inventive onigiri, refreshingly sour wild ales, and more in the Mile High City.
ever since editor-at-large Amiel Stanek wrote about them. Naturally that was my first stop in Denver. Hidden away in The Source food hall in RiNo, baker Ismael de Sousa makes these glorious Venezuelan cousins to cinnamon buns. They’ve got the crackled, flaky exterior of a croissant, the satisfying squish and intensely sweet center of a bun, and the perfect balance of sweet and salty, big thanks to CHEESE.
My friend Luis basically force-fed everyone at our table the creamy arroz con leche we ordered. “This reminds me of my grandma,” he said giddly. That’s the magic of this lunch-only counter that’s literally across the South Platte River from Reunion. The food atis equal parts soulful and satisfying, whether you grew up with it or not.
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