16 seats, 9 courses, and 1 electric stove: a look at one of North America’s most beautiful and unlikely restaurants.
Bite House
I’m not in Picard’s car by chance. I’m there because a friend from Toronto told me about a small restaurant in the middle of nowhere, on Nova Scotia’s eastern-most island, that was inescapably alluring. It’s impossible to get a reservation. The chef is amazing. It’s in a little farmhouse. It’s called the Bite House.Picard’s restaurant is open three days a week from May to December. The kitchen’s four-burner stove is electric. The coffee is made in French presses.
“He’s a great neighbor,” Picard says. “Sometimes he’ll just stop by with vegetables or herbs and ask for a beer in return. He lets me pick whatever I want from his property and use it at the restaurant.” Back in the kitchen, Picard blanches the dill and some spinach, mixing it with oil in his Vitamix. He shells fava beans and makes honey fudge, a chewy, floral caramel with a two-to-one ratio of sugar to honey. He removes braising liquid from a Dutch oven that’s held a pork shoulder since sunrise, reduces it in a separate pot, then pours it back into the pot. He grills cabbage and radicchio in the wood shed outside.
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