You won’t see multi-storey hotels, corporate logos lining streets or Lycra-clad influencers in this quiet village.
Baby chickens running wild, “spider” boats and blackened coastlines – this is far from Bali’s typical hotspot scenes. Amed is a throwback to the Bali of yesteryear.
On arrival at 3am, Amed’s narrow main street is dead quiet; there’s not a soul in sight. Under the moonlight, I walk with my driver down a long driveway towards the beach to locate my accommodation. The sound of my suitcase rolling over the gravel drowns out the gently lapping waves. Amed’s beach is dotted with low-rise accommodation and a few beach bar shacks. My oceanfront homestay comprises two neighbouring villas, both basic at best. Each 26-metre-square bungalow features glossy white tiles, a four-poster bed and a semi-outdoor bathroom with cobblestone flooring .
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